Sunny Irish Eyes!

Dia Daoibh.... from the Wandering Berkmans!  

Coming to you from sunny yet temperate Seattle!  Who knew we had the gift of bringing on perfect weather where ever we go?  Ok, maybe not always (a week of rain in Split and Atlanta -- yeah, whatever)  but we hit the jackpot in our 3 weeks in June on Irish shores  where the sun greeted us everyday and stayed light late into the night.  

We started our stay with the goal of exploring Dublin for a week at the end of May without paying Dublin lodging prices.  Our lovely compromise-- Angela's terrific cottage in Shankill, an easy 40 min bus or train ride into Dublin.  We had the best of both worlds-- convenient access into the city (reliable mass transit there) where we spent days exploring, taking walking tours and distillery tours, and basking in the unusual sun with the locals.  And when we had enough, easy transport back to the tranquility of our little town where we also had grocery stores, the local pub,  restaurants, etc within walking distance.  And the dramatic rocky coast!  

A couple of Dublin highlights-

the impressive architecture of Christ's Church included an overhead walkway (seen here in the middle) so the Bishop could evade the ubiquitous rain on his way to his residence on the right.  We also appreciated the bee sanctuary on site

Seeing the artistry and reading about the process of making the Book of Kells made purchasing timed tickets ahead of time worth it.  I especially loved this alphabet (shown below) 

The bog bodies from 400-200 BC displayed at the The National Museum of Ireland brought this impressive archeological museum into the land of freaky.  While head and leg-less, this person had remarkably well-cared for hands.  

Turns out the infamous Temple Bar is actually the name of the area but this establishment knew a good thing and took on the name.  Our tour guide Maureen said locals wouldn't be caught dead in there-- full of tourists.  She also filled us in on a tip-- in many pubs, the price of a pint is raised every hour.  Woe be the unknowing tourist who starts a tab at 6 pm and leaves hours later to find their cheap pint turned into anything but! 

Why all the colorful doors? And they're everywhere in "town", as the locals call Dublin. One legend has it that when Queen Victoria died, England directed the Irish to paint their front doors black in mourning.  The response instead from many-- a  rainbow of colorful doors far and wide.  

 

Your Book of Kells ticket includes entry to the Trinity Library .  Irish publishers are required to deposit a copy of every publication to the library.  The ornate space was only partially filled as a large scale book restoration process was in full swing but it was still so impressive.  

After 2 weeks in Dublin, we headed to Madrid for an overnight and our every-3- month dentist appointments.   We're in great hands with Drs. Raquel, Lucia, Ernesto and Daniela (seen here with us).   We've had so many visits now our Whatsapp communication includes heart emojis. 

 

Back to Ireland, car rented (automatic-- Don wasn't going to venture on the other side of the road with a manual!) and we were off to Galway.  And we hadn't even heard of that Ed Sheeran song but we ended up in one of the pubs in the video.  nice!

We stayed in Salthill, a cute beach town just a 15 walk away from Galway city center.  The airbnb was kinda Jersey Shore-esque -- the Galway area is pricey!- but it worked for the week we were there.  We used Salthill as a base to explore not only Galway but also sights nearby.  And to enjoy biking and having coffee by the sea.  And to watch those brave souls diving off high dives and swimming in the still frigid waters.  Yes, we brought the sun but not that much sun!

River Corrib running through Galway with the cathedral beyond.

Bikes then a cuppa by Galway Bay  ahhhhhhh.  

Even if you don't take the plunge from the Blackrock diving tower  don't forget to kick the wall on the Prom(enade) for good luck! For the curious, the water temp at that time was in the low 50's... no thank you!

Clocking in at a youthful 800 years old, The King's Head isn't actually the oldest bar in Ireland (that would be Sean's Bar in Athlone, from AD 900).  But in 1649 the beheading of Charles I proved too noteworthy not to name a bar after the event.  

After dabbling in cities, we were excited to hit the countryside.  

First a private home, then a private school for girls and now one of the most visited sites in Ireland, Kylemore Abbey was a beautiful tour inside and out -- the expansive flower and veg gardens made me want to have a garden again .  This first misty day for weeks was the perfect Irish weather for our visit.  

The poor, bloody things!  Nah, these sheep are fine, just chilling on the side of the road.  Everywhere!   The colorful marks indicate their farm, whether they've been inoculated and if they're pregnant.  Read all about this clever farming practice here!

Not far from Kylemore Abbey we made an Urich stop ("an unplanned stop", as named by the family of our friend Eva) in the quintessential small town of Clifden.  So close to our "Clinton" we had to check it out.  That and all the Pride flags around town said "Welcome!"  We had the best pub music experience with a trio who sang sea shanty after sea shanty while we quaffed Guinness (served cold!  Who told us it was always served room temp??) 

This is not a drill.  This is not Photoshop.  These majestic beauties,  Connemara ponies,  just happened to be standing on a ridge, 20 feet from the road as we drove by, bathed in Irish mist, wind through their tails and manes.  Legend has it that in 1588 the Spanish Armada threw horses overboard to lighten the load of their galleons.  The horses swam to shore, mated with the local equines et voila! Instagram worthy beasts!

The Cliffs of Moher-- incredible views and gravity defying rock formations like this one here.  It's worth slogging through the tourists (maybe go earlier in the day?), taking in the sights as you walk along the cliffs. Harry Potter fans -  Dumbledore and Harry take a boat into one of the caves here, in search of a horcrux.  The visitors' center, built into a hill, is worth stopping in.  

 

Ok let's just say it right now-- we did not come to Ireland for the food.  While there were some traditional dishes we enjoyed, for the most part we were mostly "meh"... unless we had non-Irish food hahaha.  Case in point-- seafood chowder was everywhere but every time I had it it was mostly potato.  The tastiest part of this meal--- the Irish brown bread.  

Db went traditional with the fish and chips (tasty)  and a side of mushy peas (completely devoid of flavor. why???? )

One of the nice parts about eating in Dublin is that there is cuisine from everywhere else in the world and lots of vegan options for those inclined.  This  perfectly-seasoned puttanesca jackfruit with polenta was a welcome break from potatoes.   

Ok, I'll admit this seafood chowder was better than the other one but still sooooooo much potato!  I know, I know, it's Ireland, they like their potatoes.  

Cue the portion of the blog called "Don and his beverages".  This one-- a "hot whiskey", which is whiskey, lemon, clove and hot water. Right up my alley but even Don liked it! By the way I was assured by a guide at the Teeling Whiskey Distillery that this concoction is not an abomination of whiskey drinking!

And of course, requisite self guided tour of the Guinness storehouse had us ending our visit in the Gravity Bar overlooking the city.  The view was mostly of cranes as there is a ton of construction going on in that neighborhood but as you can tell from Don's foamy 'stache the finale was worth it.  (note-- Guinness offers some interesting alternatives-- if you're not into the strong taste, they will temper your pour with blackcurrent juice.  Or if you're the designated driver, Guinness O%-- nice!)

How could we tempt you with the suggestion of sea shanties but not allow you to hear one?  This edition's SOL is from Lowry's Bar in Clifden.  Everyone, including this Jew and this Cuban, becomes Irish when you sing along.  This song has been covered by seemingly everyone (Nina Simone, Joan Baez...) and is actually a Scottish tune but who are we to piddle with technicalities! 

Zach will arrive in Seattle next week to complete our Fearsome Foursome and then we leave for our Extended Family USA/UK Tour Extraordinaire at the end of the month,  with final stops in Britain to see my sister Christina and husband Codge (and their many kids and grandkids!) and then to Scotland to reunite with dear family friends Audrey and Frank and their families.  We last saw the McDades in person 47 years ago when we all lived in Taiwan--  ought to be a great time!

Until next time, dear friends and fam.  As always, be well and thanks for following along!

Don and Monica

Ireland