Strangers in Now Not a Strange Land! Our Croatian Adventure

Bok (hi)...... from the Wandering Berkmans!

Split, where have you been all our lives??? 

When we first came to the conclusion that Croatia would be our first landing spot in Europe we were resigned to the fact that while it wasn't our first choice, it got us on the continent to make further travel already planned for Denmark, the UK and Italy easier.  (I know-- woe is us.). Another plus-- Croatia is not in the Schengen Zone so we could spend more than 3 months there should the Covid situation warrant it.  

Admittedly, while we did a broad analysis of Croatia years ago when we were first planning our nomadic life, we did very little research recently on the city of Split. What was the food like?  What did they speak there?  Where is it exactly??  A quick youtube search a couple of days before we left made our jaws drop.  Wait, it's on the  Adriatic Sea?  It's a city that took over a palace?? What is this Black Risotto you speak of??  And would we ever get the cuttlefish ink off of our teeth??

Apparently not!

Split, Croatia has been a series of wonderful surprises.

Riva-- the promenade in Split showcasing the beautifully clear waters of the Adriatic Sea to one side and Mount Mosor behind .

A city built in and around the demolished palace of the Emperor Diocletian? So cool.  The labyrinth of streets is fascinating.  

these little gizmos are just small enough to make deliveries in the more narrow streets.  uh, kinda... 

And who knew that garbage thrown down a hole in the 5th century would turn into a solid wall in the lower levels of the palace today?  There's hope for Fresh Kills! And those circles by the wall? Remnants of the palace sewer system.  Those Romans tho...

Our friend Marieta was our terrific tour guide. 

A daily farmers's market?  Of course- we wouldn't have it any other way.

A beach doesn't need sand to be wonderful.  Little pebbles (or boulders!) and water shoes work just fine, thanks, when the water is this crystal clear

We were 2 of six swimmers there that day.  bliss

Picigin is our new favorite sport!  Invented on Bačvice Beach in Split, this is the Croatian version of the "pass me the balloony" game we used to play with the kids. Apparently extra points are granted to a team for amazing dives while reaching for  the little rubber ball.   The game just needs a few Berkman Rules, like stand on one foot while you whistle and hit the ball for triple points! Watch this vid on full screen to truly appreciate some spectacular dives

Did someone say food?  We thought it would be all goulash and schnitzel but many types of risotto, pizza, delicious olive oil and seafood galore has made for some very tasty eating, including the popular street food cévapi  (pronounced cheh-VAH-pee) which is grilled minced meat that looks like meat fingers.  We did not want to love this as much as we did!  Apologies to all our vegetarian fam and friends

the Four Cévapi also happens to be the name of our 3rd place winning trivia team!

Wash it down with the local pivo (beer) Karlovačko or Pan, or a cold Pipi (yes, named for Pipi Longstockings but pronounced in a way that the Cuban child in me always giggles a little inside when I order it)

Additionally, Croatian wine is tasty!  Apparently the zinfandel grape comes from Croatia-- who knew!  And unlike the crappy white zinfandel so many of us drank back in the day, this variety makes for a delish rosé on the hot 90 degree days we've been having lately.  Here is Ivan the winemaker  from Sladić discussing varietals with Don.  Not a competitive bone to be found in this pic.  

Speaking of bones, the skeletal system of Croatian men (and some women) has gone into evolutionary overdrive.  Never have we been in a city where so many are so tall!  Don, at 5'11" feels short in a way he's never felt before.  As to the gents in this pic- the middle one is Don's height.  His buddy on the right-- oh, about 6'7" or so.  It's wild!   

We've met some wonderful people here! 

we shared many a laugh and delicious wine with fellow American nomads Iris and Patrick 

The group at the LGBTQIA+ Centar have been so terrific and welcoming.  Trivia night, a swap meet, a private tour, coffee dates, drag show- they're filling our calendar!  We're looking forward to the Pride March on July 17.  

We were honored to raise a rainbow flag in Split with them (one sign said "If there were no hate, I would be on the beach right now.").  Our friends at the Centar tell us Croatia still has a way to go as it applies to LGBTQIA+ rights, and especially as it applies to acceptance with their families and with the public.  A glimmer of hope lies with the newly elected Mayor and Deputy Mayor-- they seem to be more inclusive and open to discussion.  We're so proud of these young people from the Centar for their hard work-- we'll keep helping where we can! 

We have been learning a little Croatian while teaching Stjepan (another 6'7" Croatian!) a little Spanish during our Saturday morning coffees on Riva.  Order one coffee each and stay for hours-- gotta love this cafe culture. Yesterday we geeked out on predicting what AI will do for us in the future-- homes that clean themselves! Implant a chip with your "self"  in a new body when you die!  We'll also be introducing him to the endless possibilities of tofu in his quest to eat less meat (this one's for you, B, B and C!)

The UK won't have us yet (we'll get there one day!) so we've re-upped for one more month in Split. We move to our new Airbnb next week and then for a quick visit to Zagreb to see the city and visit with a couple we met at lunch the other day.  And with Viktor, their adorable 7 month old baby!  Don is especially excited.

More on our time in Split and other cities in our next edition.    In the meantime, know what's the best way to get adopted?  Go swimming for the first time with Don and let social media document it.  Three days after this outing with a local animal shelter, little Anna (shown here with sister Elsa) was adopted! 

Do sljedećeg puta! (Until next time!) (yes, an interesting translation for all you Spanish speakers out there.)

 Be well and thanks for following along!

Don and Monica