Boa Tarde from the Wandering Berkmans!
You'll all be relieved to know we have found our office away from home from which to do our work-- a little cafe by the river where we can order an espresso and use their wifi for hours. Don is busy planning travel into 2021 (Corona Virus making things tricky, to be sure. More on that later) and I continuing as historian of our adventure, both for you, beloved reader, and for ourselves. (At Zach's suggestion, I started a MyDaily3 log of just 3 things I've/we've done everyday and I have to say I've been pretty consistent since 2014. The list of 3 has become a longer missive, admittedly, but it's great fun to randomly chose a date in the past and read what we did that day, from the interesting to the mundane. Picked up dry cleaning on 4/23/15? Amazing!)
You'll all be relieved to know we have found our office away from home from which to do our work-- a little cafe by the river where we can order an espresso and use their wifi for hours. Don is busy planning travel into 2021 (Corona Virus making things tricky, to be sure. More on that later) and I continuing as historian of our adventure, both for you, beloved reader, and for ourselves. (At Zach's suggestion, I started a MyDaily3 log of just 3 things I've/we've done everyday and I have to say I've been pretty consistent since 2014. The list of 3 has become a longer missive, admittedly, but it's great fun to randomly chose a date in the past and read what we did that day, from the interesting to the mundane. Picked up dry cleaning on 4/23/15? Amazing!)
Before we get into our next special guest visit, one important piece of news-- we sold our house in Clinton! Finally! We are officially and unequivocally not homeowners and it feels pretty darn good! All our best wishes to the young family who bought our wonderful house-- may it be as happy a home to them as it was to us for 22 years. They are also in receipt of some great neighbors, whom we will miss. Here we are, post house sale and mid happy dance.
February 26 brought to us our latest guest, escaping the winter of Madison, Wisconsin- my sister Laura! And when I say escape, I mean escape. The snow followed her to the plane door and let loose after she left. Welcome to Lisboa, with a low of 58 degrees and sunny skies!
As anticipated, Laura took to life here like Don to a BICA-- immediately and yes please! (BTW I don't think I revealed my 2nd week language blunder, ordering from a young waiter three BICOs instead of BICAs. Apparently, according to the local urban dictionary, I had just asked for not just one but three blow jobs. Charming.)
Just hours after her arrival Laura was tucking into a plate of bacalhau, sampling grilled octopus (polvo) for the first time, and enjoying the local wine. And at least 3 BICA's (note the "A") by 5 pm. The final delicacy before she collapsed at 7 PM after 30 hours of travel, the infamous port and pastel de nata in our favorite cafe. Our animated waiter Carnie (spell as you suppose it to be) kept us laughing with his descriptions of the night he had planned ahead, dancing to Samba in the Baixa area. Also, Laura was the Snow White of Lisbon, making friends with all the local dogs and cats we passed.
Laura had a chance to dip her toes in both the Rio Tejo, a 20 min walk from our place, and the Atlantic Ocean with a visit via train to Cascais and Estoril.
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She also braved the rising tides in the splash zone of a walkway-- those waves were no match for my rainbow umbrella!
Estoril was high on her "History Major" list as the westernmost point of the continent where many Jews escaping the Nazis waited for passage to the US. Many left, some stayed. Our people-watching took on new meaning every time we saw a person in their 80's. What was their story?
Laura took time to examine local real estate-- for a may-haps move to the Iberian Peninsula? This chalet in Estoril caught her eye- we almost lived there immediately as we walked through the gates and 10 minutes later found they were locked. We envisioned having to hoist me over the wall when Laura found a groundskeeper who granted us our freedom, with a scolding. Worse places to be trapped, for sure.
Laura's food list included Bacalhau a Bras, a comforting mix of codfish, shredded potatoes and eggs. Tastier than it sounds.... really. And, of course, with a view like that, everything tastes better.
More real estate shopping occurred in Sintra. We had to hike a hill in the drizzle for 90 minutes but the views from the Pena Palace in the clouds were spectacular. We paid ourselves back for the strenuous effort with a delicious tabla de queijo (cheese plate) and vino quente (mulled wine) lunch in town.
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We think the Portugal lure is strong in this one. Take note of the ease in which Laura rides the local tram and nary blinks an eye when we're stopped, literally, in our tracks by a car parked on the tracks. And see her take in a late morning ginja (cherry liquor said to have medicinal benefits... hm..) without fear, even as we could feel the hair on our chests growing.
Laura had just shimmied up the mast to right the tangled sail when she took the time to join us in a photo shoot on the Rio Tejo. Impressive sea-faring skills.
The standing ovation Laura received for her Fado performance was dwarfed only by the tears of emotion shed by the audience. Here she is post-performance with one of the guitar players and a well-deserved sumptuous meal.
Did I mention we ate more amazing bacalhau? They make it a million ways from Sunday out here and we love every bite. Yes, even Don. He had bacalhau today for lunch today and .... no wait, that was yesterday. Today, he had grilled Sea-bream. The whole fish. Not as fish sticks. Our boy is growing up! See him work his way around bones like a pro. I'm partial to the ensalada da bacalhau shown, a not terribly pretty but delicious salad of cod and garbanzo beans.
With all this activity, you'd think Laura would have been worn out. She only took this brief rest in the sun for us before she once again bested us on the hills of Lisboa. She claims to be part mountain goat and we don't doubt it now.
We loved having you spend the week with us, sis! And we hope this visit was the jump-start you were looking for to see the world.
And at Laura's request, next blog we plan to include some little tricks of the trade we've come across that may be helpful to others looking to visit this fair city. (See aforementioned BICA anecdote as a starter. Regardless of how you look at it, you're welcome.)
Also, as requested by some curious readers, here's but one saucy line from the 1500's love letter translated for us at the church fair (see last blog post)--
"I rejoice each day, to increase my fire, you cunningly devise some fresh incitement..."
Hello....
Thanks for following along!
Don and Monica
 |
February 26 brought to us our latest guest, escaping the winter of Madison, Wisconsin- my sister Laura! And when I say escape, I mean escape. The snow followed her to the plane door and let loose after she left. Welcome to Lisboa, with a low of 58 degrees and sunny skies!
As anticipated, Laura took to life here like Don to a BICA-- immediately and yes please! (BTW I don't think I revealed my 2nd week language blunder, ordering from a young waiter three BICOs instead of BICAs. Apparently, according to the local urban dictionary, I had just asked for not just one but three blow jobs. Charming.)
Just hours after her arrival Laura was tucking into a plate of bacalhau, sampling grilled octopus (polvo) for the first time, and enjoying the local wine. And at least 3 BICA's (note the "A") by 5 pm. The final delicacy before she collapsed at 7 PM after 30 hours of travel, the infamous port and pastel de nata in our favorite cafe. Our animated waiter Carnie (spell as you suppose it to be) kept us laughing with his descriptions of the night he had planned ahead, dancing to Samba in the Baixa area. Also, Laura was the Snow White of Lisbon, making friends with all the local dogs and cats we passed.
Laura had a chance to dip her toes in both the Rio Tejo, a 20 min walk from our place, and the Atlantic Ocean with a visit via train to Cascais and Estoril.
.She also braved the rising tides in the splash zone of a walkway-- those waves were no match for my rainbow umbrella!
Estoril was high on her "History Major" list as the westernmost point of the continent where many Jews escaping the Nazis waited for passage to the US. Many left, some stayed. Our people-watching took on new meaning every time we saw a person in their 80's. What was their story?
Laura took time to examine local real estate-- for a may-haps move to the Iberian Peninsula? This chalet in Estoril caught her eye- we almost lived there immediately as we walked through the gates and 10 minutes later found they were locked. We envisioned having to hoist me over the wall when Laura found a groundskeeper who granted us our freedom, with a scolding. Worse places to be trapped, for sure.
 |
| Don and Laura "kicking the tires" to see if this cottage would fit Laura's housing needs |
Laura's food list included Bacalhau a Bras, a comforting mix of codfish, shredded potatoes and eggs. Tastier than it sounds.... really. And, of course, with a view like that, everything tastes better.
More real estate shopping occurred in Sintra. We had to hike a hill in the drizzle for 90 minutes but the views from the Pena Palace in the clouds were spectacular. We paid ourselves back for the strenuous effort with a delicious tabla de queijo (cheese plate) and vino quente (mulled wine) lunch in town.
Laura had just shimmied up the mast to right the tangled sail when she took the time to join us in a photo shoot on the Rio Tejo. Impressive sea-faring skills.
The standing ovation Laura received for her Fado performance was dwarfed only by the tears of emotion shed by the audience. Here she is post-performance with one of the guitar players and a well-deserved sumptuous meal.
Did I mention we ate more amazing bacalhau? They make it a million ways from Sunday out here and we love every bite. Yes, even Don. He had bacalhau today for lunch today and .... no wait, that was yesterday. Today, he had grilled Sea-bream. The whole fish. Not as fish sticks. Our boy is growing up! See him work his way around bones like a pro. I'm partial to the ensalada da bacalhau shown, a not terribly pretty but delicious salad of cod and garbanzo beans.
With all this activity, you'd think Laura would have been worn out. She only took this brief rest in the sun for us before she once again bested us on the hills of Lisboa. She claims to be part mountain goat and we don't doubt it now.
We loved having you spend the week with us, sis! And we hope this visit was the jump-start you were looking for to see the world.
And at Laura's request, next blog we plan to include some little tricks of the trade we've come across that may be helpful to others looking to visit this fair city. (See aforementioned BICA anecdote as a starter. Regardless of how you look at it, you're welcome.)
Also, as requested by some curious readers, here's but one saucy line from the 1500's love letter translated for us at the church fair (see last blog post)--
"I rejoice each day, to increase my fire, you cunningly devise some fresh incitement..."
Hello....
Thanks for following along!
Don and Monica
portugal
You two are marvelous hosts and I had the best time! You made my "first date" with Lisboa sweet and delicious.
ReplyDeleteAnd oh, that night of Fado. What memories! As I sang, I especially enjoyed the interpretive dance you and Don performed to accompany me. It was worth getting jailed for one night.
xox
who knew they served such delicious bacalhau and pastel de nata even in jail??
DeleteI so love reading your blog. Your travels are made more special for this reader through the emotive writing of Monica. Its no surprise you have such creative offspring. Please stay healthy and safe. I am hoping Italy is not your next stop.
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thanks for your positive thoughts! no, Italy isn't in our plans this year---- we're here for another 3 weeks . It's a crazy time
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