Xin chào from the Wandering Berkmans!
(This post was started on Xmas Eve and the 3rd night of Hanukkah-- today I finally have access to my laptop and wifi!)
I just burned the back of my throat with the spiciest soup ever. Greetings from Vietnam, specifically Ho Chi Minh City! We arrived 2 days ago and are finding this city more manageable than Hanoi. But we’re jumping ahead.
Julia and Zach flew in from their respective homes (WA state and Mexico City respectively) to meet up in Seoul, Korea on December 15. Our 6 hour delay in LA put a crimp in our military- precise plan of meeting at Big Bowl in the Seoul airport, Terminal 2, but the kids relished in the challenge of taking the bus from the airport to our Airbnb. We were relieved to see their shoes at the door when we finally arrived but we never doubted their prowess. Seasoned travelers, they.
After 5 days in Seoul, we largely agreed on the following- it has the uniqueness of Japan but just a bit more laid back. People are louder, bigger, not afraid to spit on the ground if the need arises, more quick to laugh, maybe more sincere in their interest in tourist. We loved visiting a local temple where admission is free for those in traditional clothing, the hanbok. Groups of teens posing together, making peace signs and hearts with their hands, goofing around and not taking life too seriously. We took a page from their book.
. 
A group I wish we had photographed was that of about 10 teen boys all in black school uniforms walking towards us on the sidewalk. Two of them were doing Rock Paper Scissors as they approached. The loser ( I guess?) blurted out to us “Hello, how are you?” Then the rest loosened up- “I am fine, thanks!” “Have a nice day!” “Nice to meet you!” And on and on amid laughter, practicing their English, as they continued walking. Like we said, not taking life too seriously.
Seoul highlights-
—What did Don do in life to deserve an Airbnb right next to a curry restaurant??
—speaking of food- Korean bbq, samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup) to ease Zach’s sore throat, kimchee galore, and chicken wings so spicy even “A year in Mexico” Zach is crying for relief. And for a change of pace, our beloved Paris Baguette
wings smh
— lunch in one of the many identical food stalls in Gwangjang Market where the bench is heated, the food (mung bean cake, rice cake in spicy sauce, glass noodles, Kim bap) is amazing and the ajumoeni (middle aged woman running the stall) is a comedian.
they'll be here every Thursday
—Zach and Don’s walking food tour (never too much KBBQ) while Julia and I OD on a BTS tour in Gangham (as in the song https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bZkp7q19f0). Eat in their favorite restaurant? Of course! Karaoke? Absolutely! Recreate their publicity photos? Need you ask? Here we are replicating some of the boys' iconic poses in the area around the dorm where it all started. And enjoying a meal at their table in their favorite restaurant. Don't know BTS? Enjoy-- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0VEyzPSsu0
. 
. 
Our arrival in Hanoi, Vietnam was a great many things- the warm, breezy night feels great after the cold of Seoul. And then we hit the Old Quarter where our Airbnb was located. Our taxi was soon swarmed with motorbikes and scooters and people trying to cross the narrow streets. Horns honking, smoggy air, sidewalks crammed with vendors — it was a wild scene. The long tunnel to get to our airbnb was a bit disconcerting but being that tucked away, the street noise disappeared. It took a bit to get the hang of crossing the streets without crossing lights or any semblance of order but by the 3rd night, we were pros. (update-- now that we're home, we're not use to this "waiting for the crosswalk light" thing)
And street food is our glorious friend, stomach ills be damned. We go for it and reap the benefits and the risk that goes with it. Steamed buns for breakfast with egg coffee - Ca Phe Trung
(a substitute for milk back in the day-- whip up an egg yolk with sugar, put over strong coffee. crazy good), every kind of Bahn Mi you can imagine (one of our favs came grilled panini-like with a curious paper wrapper ), and of course, Pho Ga (a chicken noodle soup). A food tour on Christmas Eve was a treat for the senses-- first traveling around town on the back of motorbikes (driven by our trusty guides Huan, Min, Tony and Linh)-- initially we were iffy on that mode of transport but 2 min in we were loving life.) We sampled grilled clams and conch (wow!), more banh mi and Pho Ga, Banh Xeo (a seafood crepe), a dessert made with coconut milk and different beans, and Zach tries balut, a preserved, fertilized duck egg. Not enough sauce in the world for that one-- we'll spare you the image.
with our amazing tour guides
here we are among the masses
The War Remnants Museum was striking. Called the American War here in Vietnam, it opens with an exhibit of those who protested the war, both outside and on the front lines. The exhibit on the lasting effects of Agent Orange were sobering and some of us couldn't even go into the War Crimes exhibit.
other Vietnam highlights--
-- the older people doing tai-chi and using the exercise equipment in the park every morning
-- strong coffee with condensed milk at our local coffee shop Guta and everywhere else we could get it
— Julia whips out their Japanese and helps many a stunned and grateful Japanese tourist with directions, taking pix, etc. Zach wows them in Vietnam with his pronunciation. The element of surprise never gets old.
-- Ha Long Bay-- worth the 2.5 hour bus ride each way. Amazing lunch on the boat, stellar views, our boat guide softly singing as we floated between rock formations.
. 
The kids took off on Dec 26 to their respective homes via Seoul while Don and I took in 8 hours in Taipei City, where I lived from ages 8-11, to stroll down memory lane. Jack, our guide, was all in as we toured the Dominican School (completely torn down and rebuilt), our old neighborhood in Tien Mu (house torn down and the whole area apartment buildings now. Christina, my sister, joined me on Skype for that one), the Grand Hotel (thankfully not torn down and where we used to take in American movies) and rounded out with my favorite Taipei meal, mongolian bbq. An amazing tour-- Don can be my travel agent any day of the week.
our address!
Apparently the Mongols cooked on their shields as they were always on the move. Just like us!
A family trip for the ages. Now, we have a brief stay in LA with friends (thanks, Hacketts!) and off to Austin, TX for January.
A happy and healthy New Year to all! Thanks for following along!
Don and Monica
(This post was started on Xmas Eve and the 3rd night of Hanukkah-- today I finally have access to my laptop and wifi!)
I just burned the back of my throat with the spiciest soup ever. Greetings from Vietnam, specifically Ho Chi Minh City! We arrived 2 days ago and are finding this city more manageable than Hanoi. But we’re jumping ahead.
Julia and Zach flew in from their respective homes (WA state and Mexico City respectively) to meet up in Seoul, Korea on December 15. Our 6 hour delay in LA put a crimp in our military- precise plan of meeting at Big Bowl in the Seoul airport, Terminal 2, but the kids relished in the challenge of taking the bus from the airport to our Airbnb. We were relieved to see their shoes at the door when we finally arrived but we never doubted their prowess. Seasoned travelers, they.
After 5 days in Seoul, we largely agreed on the following- it has the uniqueness of Japan but just a bit more laid back. People are louder, bigger, not afraid to spit on the ground if the need arises, more quick to laugh, maybe more sincere in their interest in tourist. We loved visiting a local temple where admission is free for those in traditional clothing, the hanbok. Groups of teens posing together, making peace signs and hearts with their hands, goofing around and not taking life too seriously. We took a page from their book.
. 
A group I wish we had photographed was that of about 10 teen boys all in black school uniforms walking towards us on the sidewalk. Two of them were doing Rock Paper Scissors as they approached. The loser ( I guess?) blurted out to us “Hello, how are you?” Then the rest loosened up- “I am fine, thanks!” “Have a nice day!” “Nice to meet you!” And on and on amid laughter, practicing their English, as they continued walking. Like we said, not taking life too seriously.
Seoul highlights-
—What did Don do in life to deserve an Airbnb right next to a curry restaurant??
—speaking of food- Korean bbq, samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup) to ease Zach’s sore throat, kimchee galore, and chicken wings so spicy even “A year in Mexico” Zach is crying for relief. And for a change of pace, our beloved Paris Baguette
— lunch in one of the many identical food stalls in Gwangjang Market where the bench is heated, the food (mung bean cake, rice cake in spicy sauce, glass noodles, Kim bap) is amazing and the ajumoeni (middle aged woman running the stall) is a comedian.
they'll be here every Thursday
—Zach and Don’s walking food tour (never too much KBBQ) while Julia and I OD on a BTS tour in Gangham (as in the song https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bZkp7q19f0). Eat in their favorite restaurant? Of course! Karaoke? Absolutely! Recreate their publicity photos? Need you ask? Here we are replicating some of the boys' iconic poses in the area around the dorm where it all started. And enjoying a meal at their table in their favorite restaurant. Don't know BTS? Enjoy-- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0VEyzPSsu0
. 
. 
Our arrival in Hanoi, Vietnam was a great many things- the warm, breezy night feels great after the cold of Seoul. And then we hit the Old Quarter where our Airbnb was located. Our taxi was soon swarmed with motorbikes and scooters and people trying to cross the narrow streets. Horns honking, smoggy air, sidewalks crammed with vendors — it was a wild scene. The long tunnel to get to our airbnb was a bit disconcerting but being that tucked away, the street noise disappeared. It took a bit to get the hang of crossing the streets without crossing lights or any semblance of order but by the 3rd night, we were pros. (update-- now that we're home, we're not use to this "waiting for the crosswalk light" thing)
And street food is our glorious friend, stomach ills be damned. We go for it and reap the benefits and the risk that goes with it. Steamed buns for breakfast with egg coffee - Ca Phe Trung
(a substitute for milk back in the day-- whip up an egg yolk with sugar, put over strong coffee. crazy good), every kind of Bahn Mi you can imagine (one of our favs came grilled panini-like with a curious paper wrapper ), and of course, Pho Ga (a chicken noodle soup). A food tour on Christmas Eve was a treat for the senses-- first traveling around town on the back of motorbikes (driven by our trusty guides Huan, Min, Tony and Linh)-- initially we were iffy on that mode of transport but 2 min in we were loving life.) We sampled grilled clams and conch (wow!), more banh mi and Pho Ga, Banh Xeo (a seafood crepe), a dessert made with coconut milk and different beans, and Zach tries balut, a preserved, fertilized duck egg. Not enough sauce in the world for that one-- we'll spare you the image.
with our amazing tour guides 
here we are among the masses
The War Remnants Museum was striking. Called the American War here in Vietnam, it opens with an exhibit of those who protested the war, both outside and on the front lines. The exhibit on the lasting effects of Agent Orange were sobering and some of us couldn't even go into the War Crimes exhibit.
other Vietnam highlights--
-- the older people doing tai-chi and using the exercise equipment in the park every morning
-- strong coffee with condensed milk at our local coffee shop Guta and everywhere else we could get it
— Julia whips out their Japanese and helps many a stunned and grateful Japanese tourist with directions, taking pix, etc. Zach wows them in Vietnam with his pronunciation. The element of surprise never gets old.
-- Ha Long Bay-- worth the 2.5 hour bus ride each way. Amazing lunch on the boat, stellar views, our boat guide softly singing as we floated between rock formations.
. 
The kids took off on Dec 26 to their respective homes via Seoul while Don and I took in 8 hours in Taipei City, where I lived from ages 8-11, to stroll down memory lane. Jack, our guide, was all in as we toured the Dominican School (completely torn down and rebuilt), our old neighborhood in Tien Mu (house torn down and the whole area apartment buildings now. Christina, my sister, joined me on Skype for that one), the Grand Hotel (thankfully not torn down and where we used to take in American movies) and rounded out with my favorite Taipei meal, mongolian bbq. An amazing tour-- Don can be my travel agent any day of the week.
our address!
Apparently the Mongols cooked on their shields as they were always on the move. Just like us!
A family trip for the ages. Now, we have a brief stay in LA with friends (thanks, Hacketts!) and off to Austin, TX for January.
A happy and healthy New Year to all! Thanks for following along!
Don and Monica
taiwan, korea, vietnam
Wow! What an incredible adventure! And hooray for Jules and Zach showing their parents they can totes handle getting into a new country by themselves! Continued safe travels to all!
ReplyDeleteWonderful recap, thanks Monica. Seems like you've got 2 seasoned travelers in your kids. Great pix too.
ReplyDeleteWow that's amazing, Monica. What a terrific overview of your travels. I didn't know you had lived in China. I'm blown away at how much you did and how your family is managing this lovely lifestyle. (Dara - IDK how I"m blogger 3357 but apparently I am. How funny!)
ReplyDeleteis that your spy name? (:
DeleteHappy New Year to the Wanderers. Your adventures are providing me with entertainment, excitement, and envy. Especially the descriptions of the foods. I love to try foods from different nations, but I don't think I could have gotten the duck egg near my mouth. What did Zach think of it? Enjoy your stay in the US and keep us posted.
ReplyDeleteHave you ever watched the series "Somebody Feed Phil?" Phil Rosenthal, the creator of "Everybody Loves Raymond" takes viewers on a goodwill eating tour of the world and makes you smile and laugh as he's doing it. You're writing and sense of humor reminds me of this show! Keep it coming!
ReplyDeletethanks!-- we'll have to check out my partner in humor
DeleteLoved reading all this--made me feel like I was immersed right there with ya! I see only smiles and laughter--you guys have the right attitude-enjoying whatever you are experiencing! Great pix too--this is quite the professional operation! Just think what you could do to describe a trip in the paddle boats at Verona Park!
ReplyDelete